Questions we hear often

Frequently Asked Questions

Questions about drafting, fitting, and piece assembly, plus a few about how the journal and Blockbook work.

What's the difference between a block and a pattern?: A block is a basic, close-fitting shape drafted from measurements with no style added. A pattern is what you get once style lines, ease, and design details are drafted onto or from that block — a specific garment ready to cut.
How often should I re-measure for a block?: Body measurements don't need to be retaken for every project, but it's worth checking them again if a year or more has passed, or after a noticeable change in fit from a recent garment.
Should I measure over bare skin or over clothing?: Over the base layers a garment will actually be worn with. Measuring over bare skin for a garment that will sit over a shirt or slip tends to produce a block that's tighter than intended.
Why does my sleeve pucker even though the ease amount is "correct"?: Printed ease figures assume a particular fabric and armscye shape. A stiffer fabric or a tighter armhole curve can make a textbook ease amount too much to ease in smoothly — the fix is usually to reduce the cap height or ease amount slightly, not to force the fabric.
How many darts should a skirt block have?: There's no fixed rule — it depends on how much difference there is between the waist and hip measurement. A single dart can only absorb so much suppression cleanly before the point looks pulled; beyond that, splitting it into two smaller darts per panel usually lies flatter.
Can I use the same block for wovens and knits?: Not directly. A woven block accounts for wearing ease the fabric itself doesn't provide. A knit block usually removes some or all of that ease, since the fabric's stretch supplies part of it instead.
What's a reasonable seam allowance to use across a whole block set?: Many home drafters settle on one consistent width (often 1 to 1.5 cm) across straight seams and a narrower one on curves like necklines and armholes, and mark which is which directly on the pattern so it's never ambiguous later.
How do I know if a fit problem is the block or the fabric?: Muslin the block in a fabric with similar weight and stretch to the intended fashion fabric before troubleshooting the pattern. A block that fits in muslin but not in a very different fabric often points to a fabric-behavior issue, not a drafting one.
Is it worth tracing a commercial pattern onto my block, or should I redraft from scratch?: Overlaying your block onto the commercial pattern's key pieces first is usually faster — it shows exactly where the two shapes disagree so you can true just those areas instead of redrafting the whole thing.
What does Blockbook actually store?: Block measurements, version history, adjustment notes, and links between a block and the projects cut from it. It doesn't generate drafts — it keeps track of the ones you've already made. See the app page for details.
Is Blockdraft affiliated with a specific pattern company or sewing machine brand?: No. Blockdraft is an independent journal. It isn't sponsored by, and doesn't sell, any specific pattern line, fabric brand, or machine.
Can beginners use these notes, or is this for experienced drafters only?: Most notes assume you already know basic garment construction and are starting to draft your own blocks. If a note relies on a term you don't recognize, check the glossary first.
How do I suggest a topic for a future note?: Send it to hello@blockdraft.shop. Specific fitting problems make the most useful notes, so include what you tried and what didn't work.